Italian fashion house Prada has found itself in controversy after a show in Milan, where models paraded in leather sandals reminiscent of traditional Kolhapuri chappals – authentic Indian footwear from Kolhapur.
The public was outraged by the brand's failure to disclose the origin of the sandals' design, which led to accusations of cultural appropriation.
India's Reaction – Prada Claims
Following the show, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce and Industry filed a formal complaint on behalf of thousands of Kolhapur sandal makers. Chamber President Lalit Gandhi noted that Prada shoes bore a strong resemblance to traditional leather sandals, which were officially certified as a unique regional product of Kolhapur in 2019.
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The sandals, made from buffalo leather, have a distinctive braided T-shaped fastening and were used by farmers and businessmen alike. Their history dates back to the 12th century.
Prada's response to the allegations
In a letter to the chamber, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, noted that the model was in the “early stages of design” and expressed a willingness to engage in “meaningful dialogue” with Indian artisans.
“We recognize that these sandals are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear with a centuries-old history,” the statement reads.
The case has sparked a wider debate about how the fashion industry exploits other people's heritage without compensating its creators.
“In India, such sandals cost about $12, while Prada sells them for more than $800. Indian artisans are losing out while global brands are making money off our culture,” said Harsh Goenka, head of the RPG Group corporation.
Despite the outrage, some experts believe the scandal could draw attention to traditional Indian fashion among young people. Needledust founder Shirin Mann said sandals have long been considered a “prestigious” item in India, but that could change.
Following the Prada show, according to Google Trends and local media, searches for authentic shoes increased, and consumer interest also increased significantly.
